GFCI outlets - can they be repaired? Are they really needed at the end of a circuit?












8















My house just went through a flood and there was 7 feet of muddy water on the first floor, so all the AC outlets were underwater. After the water receded, all the unprotected outlets continued to work just fine. But 4 out of 5 GFCI outlets no longer work and cannot be reset. Can GFCI outlets be taken apart and cleaned/fixed or is there something inside that fails permanently?



Also, all the GFCI outlets are at the ends of their lines. In other words, there is only one wire connected to each LINE terminal and no wires connected to the LOAD terminals. So they only seem to be protecting themselves. But if they failed once they got wet and all the non-GFCI outlets survived, can I just replace them with non-GFCI outlets?










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  • 7





    You should probably replace all the outlets that were underwater, whether or not they are working now.

    – chepner
    6 hours ago






  • 6





    Wait a minute, landlady? Why are you repairing/replacing anything?

    – Nuclear Wang
    6 hours ago








  • 1





    @Criggie Floods are a crazy thing. In many areas floods are specifically not covered by regular insurance unless you specifically opt-in (and pay extra) for flood insurance. Which of course is crazy because floods are one of the most obvious (to most people) situations where insurance should be the answer.

    – manassehkatz
    6 hours ago






  • 1





    @manassehkatz Having been through an 8 year insurance nightmare due to quake damage, I am convinced insurance is the single most unethical industry that is still "legal" If OP did the replacement and 20 years away there was an electrical fire, an insurer may refuse to cover that event as well.

    – Criggie
    2 hours ago






  • 1





    @Patrick Not sure how the laws apply in your location, but here in NZ one is barred from doing electrical work for reward (ie pay) unless you're certified and qualified. The only things a non-certified person can do is replace lamps and fuses. Replacing a face plate could only be done if you are the home owner, under a DIY exemption. Since you're working on this for reduced rent, it could be taken as working for reward. Be careful.

    – Criggie
    1 hour ago
















8















My house just went through a flood and there was 7 feet of muddy water on the first floor, so all the AC outlets were underwater. After the water receded, all the unprotected outlets continued to work just fine. But 4 out of 5 GFCI outlets no longer work and cannot be reset. Can GFCI outlets be taken apart and cleaned/fixed or is there something inside that fails permanently?



Also, all the GFCI outlets are at the ends of their lines. In other words, there is only one wire connected to each LINE terminal and no wires connected to the LOAD terminals. So they only seem to be protecting themselves. But if they failed once they got wet and all the non-GFCI outlets survived, can I just replace them with non-GFCI outlets?










share|improve this question









New contributor




Patrick is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
















  • 7





    You should probably replace all the outlets that were underwater, whether or not they are working now.

    – chepner
    6 hours ago






  • 6





    Wait a minute, landlady? Why are you repairing/replacing anything?

    – Nuclear Wang
    6 hours ago








  • 1





    @Criggie Floods are a crazy thing. In many areas floods are specifically not covered by regular insurance unless you specifically opt-in (and pay extra) for flood insurance. Which of course is crazy because floods are one of the most obvious (to most people) situations where insurance should be the answer.

    – manassehkatz
    6 hours ago






  • 1





    @manassehkatz Having been through an 8 year insurance nightmare due to quake damage, I am convinced insurance is the single most unethical industry that is still "legal" If OP did the replacement and 20 years away there was an electrical fire, an insurer may refuse to cover that event as well.

    – Criggie
    2 hours ago






  • 1





    @Patrick Not sure how the laws apply in your location, but here in NZ one is barred from doing electrical work for reward (ie pay) unless you're certified and qualified. The only things a non-certified person can do is replace lamps and fuses. Replacing a face plate could only be done if you are the home owner, under a DIY exemption. Since you're working on this for reduced rent, it could be taken as working for reward. Be careful.

    – Criggie
    1 hour ago














8












8








8








My house just went through a flood and there was 7 feet of muddy water on the first floor, so all the AC outlets were underwater. After the water receded, all the unprotected outlets continued to work just fine. But 4 out of 5 GFCI outlets no longer work and cannot be reset. Can GFCI outlets be taken apart and cleaned/fixed or is there something inside that fails permanently?



Also, all the GFCI outlets are at the ends of their lines. In other words, there is only one wire connected to each LINE terminal and no wires connected to the LOAD terminals. So they only seem to be protecting themselves. But if they failed once they got wet and all the non-GFCI outlets survived, can I just replace them with non-GFCI outlets?










share|improve this question









New contributor




Patrick is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.












My house just went through a flood and there was 7 feet of muddy water on the first floor, so all the AC outlets were underwater. After the water receded, all the unprotected outlets continued to work just fine. But 4 out of 5 GFCI outlets no longer work and cannot be reset. Can GFCI outlets be taken apart and cleaned/fixed or is there something inside that fails permanently?



Also, all the GFCI outlets are at the ends of their lines. In other words, there is only one wire connected to each LINE terminal and no wires connected to the LOAD terminals. So they only seem to be protecting themselves. But if they failed once they got wet and all the non-GFCI outlets survived, can I just replace them with non-GFCI outlets?







electrical receptacle gfci






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share|improve this question









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share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited 8 hours ago









Machavity

8,13621940




8,13621940






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asked 8 hours ago









PatrickPatrick

413




413




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New contributor





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  • 7





    You should probably replace all the outlets that were underwater, whether or not they are working now.

    – chepner
    6 hours ago






  • 6





    Wait a minute, landlady? Why are you repairing/replacing anything?

    – Nuclear Wang
    6 hours ago








  • 1





    @Criggie Floods are a crazy thing. In many areas floods are specifically not covered by regular insurance unless you specifically opt-in (and pay extra) for flood insurance. Which of course is crazy because floods are one of the most obvious (to most people) situations where insurance should be the answer.

    – manassehkatz
    6 hours ago






  • 1





    @manassehkatz Having been through an 8 year insurance nightmare due to quake damage, I am convinced insurance is the single most unethical industry that is still "legal" If OP did the replacement and 20 years away there was an electrical fire, an insurer may refuse to cover that event as well.

    – Criggie
    2 hours ago






  • 1





    @Patrick Not sure how the laws apply in your location, but here in NZ one is barred from doing electrical work for reward (ie pay) unless you're certified and qualified. The only things a non-certified person can do is replace lamps and fuses. Replacing a face plate could only be done if you are the home owner, under a DIY exemption. Since you're working on this for reduced rent, it could be taken as working for reward. Be careful.

    – Criggie
    1 hour ago














  • 7





    You should probably replace all the outlets that were underwater, whether or not they are working now.

    – chepner
    6 hours ago






  • 6





    Wait a minute, landlady? Why are you repairing/replacing anything?

    – Nuclear Wang
    6 hours ago








  • 1





    @Criggie Floods are a crazy thing. In many areas floods are specifically not covered by regular insurance unless you specifically opt-in (and pay extra) for flood insurance. Which of course is crazy because floods are one of the most obvious (to most people) situations where insurance should be the answer.

    – manassehkatz
    6 hours ago






  • 1





    @manassehkatz Having been through an 8 year insurance nightmare due to quake damage, I am convinced insurance is the single most unethical industry that is still "legal" If OP did the replacement and 20 years away there was an electrical fire, an insurer may refuse to cover that event as well.

    – Criggie
    2 hours ago






  • 1





    @Patrick Not sure how the laws apply in your location, but here in NZ one is barred from doing electrical work for reward (ie pay) unless you're certified and qualified. The only things a non-certified person can do is replace lamps and fuses. Replacing a face plate could only be done if you are the home owner, under a DIY exemption. Since you're working on this for reduced rent, it could be taken as working for reward. Be careful.

    – Criggie
    1 hour ago








7




7





You should probably replace all the outlets that were underwater, whether or not they are working now.

– chepner
6 hours ago





You should probably replace all the outlets that were underwater, whether or not they are working now.

– chepner
6 hours ago




6




6





Wait a minute, landlady? Why are you repairing/replacing anything?

– Nuclear Wang
6 hours ago







Wait a minute, landlady? Why are you repairing/replacing anything?

– Nuclear Wang
6 hours ago






1




1





@Criggie Floods are a crazy thing. In many areas floods are specifically not covered by regular insurance unless you specifically opt-in (and pay extra) for flood insurance. Which of course is crazy because floods are one of the most obvious (to most people) situations where insurance should be the answer.

– manassehkatz
6 hours ago





@Criggie Floods are a crazy thing. In many areas floods are specifically not covered by regular insurance unless you specifically opt-in (and pay extra) for flood insurance. Which of course is crazy because floods are one of the most obvious (to most people) situations where insurance should be the answer.

– manassehkatz
6 hours ago




1




1





@manassehkatz Having been through an 8 year insurance nightmare due to quake damage, I am convinced insurance is the single most unethical industry that is still "legal" If OP did the replacement and 20 years away there was an electrical fire, an insurer may refuse to cover that event as well.

– Criggie
2 hours ago





@manassehkatz Having been through an 8 year insurance nightmare due to quake damage, I am convinced insurance is the single most unethical industry that is still "legal" If OP did the replacement and 20 years away there was an electrical fire, an insurer may refuse to cover that event as well.

– Criggie
2 hours ago




1




1





@Patrick Not sure how the laws apply in your location, but here in NZ one is barred from doing electrical work for reward (ie pay) unless you're certified and qualified. The only things a non-certified person can do is replace lamps and fuses. Replacing a face plate could only be done if you are the home owner, under a DIY exemption. Since you're working on this for reduced rent, it could be taken as working for reward. Be careful.

– Criggie
1 hour ago





@Patrick Not sure how the laws apply in your location, but here in NZ one is barred from doing electrical work for reward (ie pay) unless you're certified and qualified. The only things a non-certified person can do is replace lamps and fuses. Replacing a face plate could only be done if you are the home owner, under a DIY exemption. Since you're working on this for reduced rent, it could be taken as working for reward. Be careful.

– Criggie
1 hour ago










5 Answers
5






active

oldest

votes


















13














Not worth the risk



GFCI (whether in receptacles or breakers) are sensitive, life safety electronic items. As such, you don't want to mess with them. In fact, the whole purpose of the TEST/RESET buttons is because they can fail, even without obvious problems such as a flood. Newer models even test automatically.



Is it possible that there is simply still water inside the GFCIs so that disassemble, dry, reassemble will work? Yes. Is it a good idea to try that? ABSOLUTELY NOT!



New basic GFCI receptacles are in the $15 - $20 range (varies depending on brand, 15A vs. 20A and other features). Not as cheap as plain receptacles, but not that big in the grand scheme of things.



Presumably the GFCI receptacles were installed because the particular locations - basement, bathroom, laundry room, etc. required them. Assuming that is the case, replacement with plain receptacles would be a code violation. In most places you are not required to upgrade to GFCI unless you are making changes, but downgrading doesn't make sense and is likely a code violation.



Panel Alternative



An alternative is to install GFCI breakers in the main panel. This has the disadvantage that your panel may not have room for GFCI, or if you have a very old panel or fuses instead of breakers then that is not even an option. These breakers also typically cost more than "ordinary breaker" + "GFCI receptacle" so this change would be for practical reasons (e.g., protect outside circuits where a GFCI receptacle would be subject to severe weather) or as part of a panel upgrade. If you are looking at simple cost, replacing the GFCI receptacles where they are currently located will almost certainly be the way to go.



Check Out Everything Else



As Harper noted, there are plenty of other concerns as well. This is one situation where DIY may really not be enough. You could have hidden damage that can come back to burn you (literally) when you least expect it. Professional evaluation of the entire electrical system that was underwater is worthwhile.






share|improve this answer





















  • 1





    Thanks for the quick reply and helpful information about GFCI breakers, manassehkatz. There are 3 circuits involved so it sounds like just replacing the receptacles will be the way to go!

    – Patrick
    8 hours ago






  • 2





    @Patrick To be clear, even if it were 300 replacing would be the way to go. These devices aren't here for fun. Do it right. (And if you value your time at all, there's about a 0% chance doing anything but replacing broken receptacles would be cheaper.)

    – GManNickG
    5 hours ago






  • 1





    @Joshua Computers - or almost any properly functioning equipment - should not care whether it is on a GFCI or now. I'm sitting in my basement right now with my computer on a GFCI receptacle. Never a problem. There might be issues in some circumstances with equipment causing problems for AFCI, but even then computers should not be the problem.

    – manassehkatz
    5 hours ago






  • 1





    @manassehkatz: It's an energy management problem. The data lines leak tiny amounts of power through the pull-up or pull-down resistors. We found that as little as two ethernet cables in use will reliably trip a GFCI due to the carrier sense circuit alone. Fundamentally, if you induce a voltage difference between the neutral and ground wires, the GFCI will trip.

    – Joshua
    4 hours ago








  • 1





    @Joshua I've never had a problem. Most of my customers' computers are not on GFCI, but I haven't seen this at all. Are these servers, desktop computers or specialized equipment? What kind of power supplies?

    – manassehkatz
    4 hours ago



















7















  1. It's not practically feasible to clean and repair a GFCI outlet. They're fairly elaborate and sensitive gizmos, and they're not designed to be disassembled. Could you pull it off? Probably. Would I want to? Nope. Would it void the UL listing? Yup.


  2. Whether GFCI outlets are needed at the end of a circuit depends almost entirely on where they're located. The fact that they're the last in a string of outlets is inconsequential. Are they in locations normally exposed to water, such as kitchens and bathrooms? If so, they need to stay.







share|improve this answer


























  • Thanks for confirming my suspicians, isherwood, and for instructing me re only asking one question at a time. Much appreciated!

    – Patrick
    8 hours ago











  • What kinds of things void a UL listing/rating? Is there an official / insurance approved list somewhere?

    – Xen2050
    7 hours ago






  • 2





    "An authorized use of the UL Mark is the manufacturer’s declaration that the product was manufactured in accordance with all applicable requirements, and was in compliance with those requirements when it was shipped from the factory. If that product is modified after it leaves the factory, only a UL Field Evaluation can determine if the modified product complies with UL’s requirements." ul.com/code-authorities/resources/faqs-for-code-authorities Most GFCI outlets are made with tabs and rivets that can't be removed in a non-destructive manner.

    – isherwood
    7 hours ago





















6














It's worse than that. The cables are done too.



Most houses are wired with Romex (NM) cable. That's not rated for getting wet. It has paper packing inside the sheath that just wicks water like crazy.



If the people who built the house were flood savvy, they built with UF cable, which is wet-rated and notably does not have that paper packing. It will be fine. Or they built with conduit and use THWN or THWN-2 individual wires. Those are also wet-rated and work fine even if the conduit is full of water, which is the normal expectation outdoors.



All the switches and outlets are done



Flood damage destroys everything, becuase it's not just water, it's a lot of crud too. Flood cars are finished. Some of that crud is electrically conductive, and it has gunked up each of the receptacles with it. Also, the crud is corrosive, so anything in that receptacle that could corrode, is right now.



For all those reasons (electronics are extra sensitive to corrosion), the GFCIs are all finished and must be replaced.



The service panel is also done



Service panels, even outdoor rated ones, are not rated to go for a swim. The crud is also inside the breakers laying conductive tracks and doing corrosion damage. These breakers will no longer be reliable. It might be possible to pull the buses out of the service panel and clean them, you'd have to see.



If you look at news footage of Houston's recent flood, you see lots of 2-storey apartments, 1st floors flooded out, and 2nd floors with the lights on and the A/C running. Flood-savvy builders take their power from overhead lines not underground, and put the service panel on the 2nd floor. They put 1st floor circuits on GFCI breakers so they don't electrify the water and drown people. A GFCI breaker protects the entire circuit and makes GFCI receptacles unnecessary.



All GFCI devices can protect downline loads if wired correctly. You are correct that a GFCI receptacle on the end of a circuit is a bit of a waste.



(Usually) you can't work on rental properties



Most areas have a law that only licensed electricians can do work on rental properties. That is to prevent landlords from doing shoddy work on the cheap and killing their tenants.



Check with your local authority (the department in City Hall you go to pull permits). They will tell you what a handyman can and cannot do with electrical in rental units. If they allow you to do anything at all, it would be limited to changing receptacles, switches or lights. GFCI receptacle changes could be included in that.






share|improve this answer
























  • The silver lining is that since the walls need to be torn apart to eradicate mold, getting access to the ruined electrical cables will not be difficult.

    – Ben Voigt
    1 hour ago



















4















Can GFCI outlets be taken apart and cleaned/fixed or is there something inside that fails permanently?




A GFCI protects you by using a circuit board to watch the current flowing out of the hot and coming back into the neutral. If it reaches around 5mA imbalance, the breaker trips. You said yours were submerged in a flood. Just like your cell phone or computer, the flood ruined the circuitry inside. You cannot repair it yourself (assuming anyone can repair it).



Replacing them is not terribly expensive, and the newer ones have a self-test mechanism.






share|improve this answer































    0














    As a homeowner, an electrical engineer, and a fair tinkerer, I would not attempt to repair a GFCI unless I was desperate.



    However, if I absolutely had to, what I would try is first rinsing with plain water and a few drops of dish detergent, then rinsing in distilled water with a few drops of dishwasher "rinse agent" added, then rinsing in plain rubbing alcohol. Do all these rinses thoroughly, so that the fluid is swished through the fixture. Then shake dry the best you can and put in a 100 degree oven (no warmer!) for an hour or two. If that doesn't fix it, toss it in the trash!



    It would be interesting to take one of the things apart to see how it's made, but I'm guessing it would be impossible to get back together again. To be successful you'd have to sacrifice one or two units to help you design assembly jigs of some sort, and you'd probably have to find some replacement rivets from somewhere.



    With regard to the wiring, it's kinda iffy. You especially want to make sure the GFCIs are replaced, and that, when reinstalled, they are properly grounded. (Check the continuity of the ground wire!) Any cabling that looks suspicious (especially scummy or "burned looking", eg) should be replaced. And any regular outlets in, eg, nursery areas, where gerfingerpokin is apt to be going on should be replaced.






    share|improve this answer
























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      5 Answers
      5






      active

      oldest

      votes








      5 Answers
      5






      active

      oldest

      votes









      active

      oldest

      votes






      active

      oldest

      votes









      13














      Not worth the risk



      GFCI (whether in receptacles or breakers) are sensitive, life safety electronic items. As such, you don't want to mess with them. In fact, the whole purpose of the TEST/RESET buttons is because they can fail, even without obvious problems such as a flood. Newer models even test automatically.



      Is it possible that there is simply still water inside the GFCIs so that disassemble, dry, reassemble will work? Yes. Is it a good idea to try that? ABSOLUTELY NOT!



      New basic GFCI receptacles are in the $15 - $20 range (varies depending on brand, 15A vs. 20A and other features). Not as cheap as plain receptacles, but not that big in the grand scheme of things.



      Presumably the GFCI receptacles were installed because the particular locations - basement, bathroom, laundry room, etc. required them. Assuming that is the case, replacement with plain receptacles would be a code violation. In most places you are not required to upgrade to GFCI unless you are making changes, but downgrading doesn't make sense and is likely a code violation.



      Panel Alternative



      An alternative is to install GFCI breakers in the main panel. This has the disadvantage that your panel may not have room for GFCI, or if you have a very old panel or fuses instead of breakers then that is not even an option. These breakers also typically cost more than "ordinary breaker" + "GFCI receptacle" so this change would be for practical reasons (e.g., protect outside circuits where a GFCI receptacle would be subject to severe weather) or as part of a panel upgrade. If you are looking at simple cost, replacing the GFCI receptacles where they are currently located will almost certainly be the way to go.



      Check Out Everything Else



      As Harper noted, there are plenty of other concerns as well. This is one situation where DIY may really not be enough. You could have hidden damage that can come back to burn you (literally) when you least expect it. Professional evaluation of the entire electrical system that was underwater is worthwhile.






      share|improve this answer





















      • 1





        Thanks for the quick reply and helpful information about GFCI breakers, manassehkatz. There are 3 circuits involved so it sounds like just replacing the receptacles will be the way to go!

        – Patrick
        8 hours ago






      • 2





        @Patrick To be clear, even if it were 300 replacing would be the way to go. These devices aren't here for fun. Do it right. (And if you value your time at all, there's about a 0% chance doing anything but replacing broken receptacles would be cheaper.)

        – GManNickG
        5 hours ago






      • 1





        @Joshua Computers - or almost any properly functioning equipment - should not care whether it is on a GFCI or now. I'm sitting in my basement right now with my computer on a GFCI receptacle. Never a problem. There might be issues in some circumstances with equipment causing problems for AFCI, but even then computers should not be the problem.

        – manassehkatz
        5 hours ago






      • 1





        @manassehkatz: It's an energy management problem. The data lines leak tiny amounts of power through the pull-up or pull-down resistors. We found that as little as two ethernet cables in use will reliably trip a GFCI due to the carrier sense circuit alone. Fundamentally, if you induce a voltage difference between the neutral and ground wires, the GFCI will trip.

        – Joshua
        4 hours ago








      • 1





        @Joshua I've never had a problem. Most of my customers' computers are not on GFCI, but I haven't seen this at all. Are these servers, desktop computers or specialized equipment? What kind of power supplies?

        – manassehkatz
        4 hours ago
















      13














      Not worth the risk



      GFCI (whether in receptacles or breakers) are sensitive, life safety electronic items. As such, you don't want to mess with them. In fact, the whole purpose of the TEST/RESET buttons is because they can fail, even without obvious problems such as a flood. Newer models even test automatically.



      Is it possible that there is simply still water inside the GFCIs so that disassemble, dry, reassemble will work? Yes. Is it a good idea to try that? ABSOLUTELY NOT!



      New basic GFCI receptacles are in the $15 - $20 range (varies depending on brand, 15A vs. 20A and other features). Not as cheap as plain receptacles, but not that big in the grand scheme of things.



      Presumably the GFCI receptacles were installed because the particular locations - basement, bathroom, laundry room, etc. required them. Assuming that is the case, replacement with plain receptacles would be a code violation. In most places you are not required to upgrade to GFCI unless you are making changes, but downgrading doesn't make sense and is likely a code violation.



      Panel Alternative



      An alternative is to install GFCI breakers in the main panel. This has the disadvantage that your panel may not have room for GFCI, or if you have a very old panel or fuses instead of breakers then that is not even an option. These breakers also typically cost more than "ordinary breaker" + "GFCI receptacle" so this change would be for practical reasons (e.g., protect outside circuits where a GFCI receptacle would be subject to severe weather) or as part of a panel upgrade. If you are looking at simple cost, replacing the GFCI receptacles where they are currently located will almost certainly be the way to go.



      Check Out Everything Else



      As Harper noted, there are plenty of other concerns as well. This is one situation where DIY may really not be enough. You could have hidden damage that can come back to burn you (literally) when you least expect it. Professional evaluation of the entire electrical system that was underwater is worthwhile.






      share|improve this answer





















      • 1





        Thanks for the quick reply and helpful information about GFCI breakers, manassehkatz. There are 3 circuits involved so it sounds like just replacing the receptacles will be the way to go!

        – Patrick
        8 hours ago






      • 2





        @Patrick To be clear, even if it were 300 replacing would be the way to go. These devices aren't here for fun. Do it right. (And if you value your time at all, there's about a 0% chance doing anything but replacing broken receptacles would be cheaper.)

        – GManNickG
        5 hours ago






      • 1





        @Joshua Computers - or almost any properly functioning equipment - should not care whether it is on a GFCI or now. I'm sitting in my basement right now with my computer on a GFCI receptacle. Never a problem. There might be issues in some circumstances with equipment causing problems for AFCI, but even then computers should not be the problem.

        – manassehkatz
        5 hours ago






      • 1





        @manassehkatz: It's an energy management problem. The data lines leak tiny amounts of power through the pull-up or pull-down resistors. We found that as little as two ethernet cables in use will reliably trip a GFCI due to the carrier sense circuit alone. Fundamentally, if you induce a voltage difference between the neutral and ground wires, the GFCI will trip.

        – Joshua
        4 hours ago








      • 1





        @Joshua I've never had a problem. Most of my customers' computers are not on GFCI, but I haven't seen this at all. Are these servers, desktop computers or specialized equipment? What kind of power supplies?

        – manassehkatz
        4 hours ago














      13












      13








      13







      Not worth the risk



      GFCI (whether in receptacles or breakers) are sensitive, life safety electronic items. As such, you don't want to mess with them. In fact, the whole purpose of the TEST/RESET buttons is because they can fail, even without obvious problems such as a flood. Newer models even test automatically.



      Is it possible that there is simply still water inside the GFCIs so that disassemble, dry, reassemble will work? Yes. Is it a good idea to try that? ABSOLUTELY NOT!



      New basic GFCI receptacles are in the $15 - $20 range (varies depending on brand, 15A vs. 20A and other features). Not as cheap as plain receptacles, but not that big in the grand scheme of things.



      Presumably the GFCI receptacles were installed because the particular locations - basement, bathroom, laundry room, etc. required them. Assuming that is the case, replacement with plain receptacles would be a code violation. In most places you are not required to upgrade to GFCI unless you are making changes, but downgrading doesn't make sense and is likely a code violation.



      Panel Alternative



      An alternative is to install GFCI breakers in the main panel. This has the disadvantage that your panel may not have room for GFCI, or if you have a very old panel or fuses instead of breakers then that is not even an option. These breakers also typically cost more than "ordinary breaker" + "GFCI receptacle" so this change would be for practical reasons (e.g., protect outside circuits where a GFCI receptacle would be subject to severe weather) or as part of a panel upgrade. If you are looking at simple cost, replacing the GFCI receptacles where they are currently located will almost certainly be the way to go.



      Check Out Everything Else



      As Harper noted, there are plenty of other concerns as well. This is one situation where DIY may really not be enough. You could have hidden damage that can come back to burn you (literally) when you least expect it. Professional evaluation of the entire electrical system that was underwater is worthwhile.






      share|improve this answer















      Not worth the risk



      GFCI (whether in receptacles or breakers) are sensitive, life safety electronic items. As such, you don't want to mess with them. In fact, the whole purpose of the TEST/RESET buttons is because they can fail, even without obvious problems such as a flood. Newer models even test automatically.



      Is it possible that there is simply still water inside the GFCIs so that disassemble, dry, reassemble will work? Yes. Is it a good idea to try that? ABSOLUTELY NOT!



      New basic GFCI receptacles are in the $15 - $20 range (varies depending on brand, 15A vs. 20A and other features). Not as cheap as plain receptacles, but not that big in the grand scheme of things.



      Presumably the GFCI receptacles were installed because the particular locations - basement, bathroom, laundry room, etc. required them. Assuming that is the case, replacement with plain receptacles would be a code violation. In most places you are not required to upgrade to GFCI unless you are making changes, but downgrading doesn't make sense and is likely a code violation.



      Panel Alternative



      An alternative is to install GFCI breakers in the main panel. This has the disadvantage that your panel may not have room for GFCI, or if you have a very old panel or fuses instead of breakers then that is not even an option. These breakers also typically cost more than "ordinary breaker" + "GFCI receptacle" so this change would be for practical reasons (e.g., protect outside circuits where a GFCI receptacle would be subject to severe weather) or as part of a panel upgrade. If you are looking at simple cost, replacing the GFCI receptacles where they are currently located will almost certainly be the way to go.



      Check Out Everything Else



      As Harper noted, there are plenty of other concerns as well. This is one situation where DIY may really not be enough. You could have hidden damage that can come back to burn you (literally) when you least expect it. Professional evaluation of the entire electrical system that was underwater is worthwhile.







      share|improve this answer














      share|improve this answer



      share|improve this answer








      edited 3 hours ago

























      answered 8 hours ago









      manassehkatzmanassehkatz

      10.3k1339




      10.3k1339








      • 1





        Thanks for the quick reply and helpful information about GFCI breakers, manassehkatz. There are 3 circuits involved so it sounds like just replacing the receptacles will be the way to go!

        – Patrick
        8 hours ago






      • 2





        @Patrick To be clear, even if it were 300 replacing would be the way to go. These devices aren't here for fun. Do it right. (And if you value your time at all, there's about a 0% chance doing anything but replacing broken receptacles would be cheaper.)

        – GManNickG
        5 hours ago






      • 1





        @Joshua Computers - or almost any properly functioning equipment - should not care whether it is on a GFCI or now. I'm sitting in my basement right now with my computer on a GFCI receptacle. Never a problem. There might be issues in some circumstances with equipment causing problems for AFCI, but even then computers should not be the problem.

        – manassehkatz
        5 hours ago






      • 1





        @manassehkatz: It's an energy management problem. The data lines leak tiny amounts of power through the pull-up or pull-down resistors. We found that as little as two ethernet cables in use will reliably trip a GFCI due to the carrier sense circuit alone. Fundamentally, if you induce a voltage difference between the neutral and ground wires, the GFCI will trip.

        – Joshua
        4 hours ago








      • 1





        @Joshua I've never had a problem. Most of my customers' computers are not on GFCI, but I haven't seen this at all. Are these servers, desktop computers or specialized equipment? What kind of power supplies?

        – manassehkatz
        4 hours ago














      • 1





        Thanks for the quick reply and helpful information about GFCI breakers, manassehkatz. There are 3 circuits involved so it sounds like just replacing the receptacles will be the way to go!

        – Patrick
        8 hours ago






      • 2





        @Patrick To be clear, even if it were 300 replacing would be the way to go. These devices aren't here for fun. Do it right. (And if you value your time at all, there's about a 0% chance doing anything but replacing broken receptacles would be cheaper.)

        – GManNickG
        5 hours ago






      • 1





        @Joshua Computers - or almost any properly functioning equipment - should not care whether it is on a GFCI or now. I'm sitting in my basement right now with my computer on a GFCI receptacle. Never a problem. There might be issues in some circumstances with equipment causing problems for AFCI, but even then computers should not be the problem.

        – manassehkatz
        5 hours ago






      • 1





        @manassehkatz: It's an energy management problem. The data lines leak tiny amounts of power through the pull-up or pull-down resistors. We found that as little as two ethernet cables in use will reliably trip a GFCI due to the carrier sense circuit alone. Fundamentally, if you induce a voltage difference between the neutral and ground wires, the GFCI will trip.

        – Joshua
        4 hours ago








      • 1





        @Joshua I've never had a problem. Most of my customers' computers are not on GFCI, but I haven't seen this at all. Are these servers, desktop computers or specialized equipment? What kind of power supplies?

        – manassehkatz
        4 hours ago








      1




      1





      Thanks for the quick reply and helpful information about GFCI breakers, manassehkatz. There are 3 circuits involved so it sounds like just replacing the receptacles will be the way to go!

      – Patrick
      8 hours ago





      Thanks for the quick reply and helpful information about GFCI breakers, manassehkatz. There are 3 circuits involved so it sounds like just replacing the receptacles will be the way to go!

      – Patrick
      8 hours ago




      2




      2





      @Patrick To be clear, even if it were 300 replacing would be the way to go. These devices aren't here for fun. Do it right. (And if you value your time at all, there's about a 0% chance doing anything but replacing broken receptacles would be cheaper.)

      – GManNickG
      5 hours ago





      @Patrick To be clear, even if it were 300 replacing would be the way to go. These devices aren't here for fun. Do it right. (And if you value your time at all, there's about a 0% chance doing anything but replacing broken receptacles would be cheaper.)

      – GManNickG
      5 hours ago




      1




      1





      @Joshua Computers - or almost any properly functioning equipment - should not care whether it is on a GFCI or now. I'm sitting in my basement right now with my computer on a GFCI receptacle. Never a problem. There might be issues in some circumstances with equipment causing problems for AFCI, but even then computers should not be the problem.

      – manassehkatz
      5 hours ago





      @Joshua Computers - or almost any properly functioning equipment - should not care whether it is on a GFCI or now. I'm sitting in my basement right now with my computer on a GFCI receptacle. Never a problem. There might be issues in some circumstances with equipment causing problems for AFCI, but even then computers should not be the problem.

      – manassehkatz
      5 hours ago




      1




      1





      @manassehkatz: It's an energy management problem. The data lines leak tiny amounts of power through the pull-up or pull-down resistors. We found that as little as two ethernet cables in use will reliably trip a GFCI due to the carrier sense circuit alone. Fundamentally, if you induce a voltage difference between the neutral and ground wires, the GFCI will trip.

      – Joshua
      4 hours ago







      @manassehkatz: It's an energy management problem. The data lines leak tiny amounts of power through the pull-up or pull-down resistors. We found that as little as two ethernet cables in use will reliably trip a GFCI due to the carrier sense circuit alone. Fundamentally, if you induce a voltage difference between the neutral and ground wires, the GFCI will trip.

      – Joshua
      4 hours ago






      1




      1





      @Joshua I've never had a problem. Most of my customers' computers are not on GFCI, but I haven't seen this at all. Are these servers, desktop computers or specialized equipment? What kind of power supplies?

      – manassehkatz
      4 hours ago





      @Joshua I've never had a problem. Most of my customers' computers are not on GFCI, but I haven't seen this at all. Are these servers, desktop computers or specialized equipment? What kind of power supplies?

      – manassehkatz
      4 hours ago













      7















      1. It's not practically feasible to clean and repair a GFCI outlet. They're fairly elaborate and sensitive gizmos, and they're not designed to be disassembled. Could you pull it off? Probably. Would I want to? Nope. Would it void the UL listing? Yup.


      2. Whether GFCI outlets are needed at the end of a circuit depends almost entirely on where they're located. The fact that they're the last in a string of outlets is inconsequential. Are they in locations normally exposed to water, such as kitchens and bathrooms? If so, they need to stay.







      share|improve this answer


























      • Thanks for confirming my suspicians, isherwood, and for instructing me re only asking one question at a time. Much appreciated!

        – Patrick
        8 hours ago











      • What kinds of things void a UL listing/rating? Is there an official / insurance approved list somewhere?

        – Xen2050
        7 hours ago






      • 2





        "An authorized use of the UL Mark is the manufacturer’s declaration that the product was manufactured in accordance with all applicable requirements, and was in compliance with those requirements when it was shipped from the factory. If that product is modified after it leaves the factory, only a UL Field Evaluation can determine if the modified product complies with UL’s requirements." ul.com/code-authorities/resources/faqs-for-code-authorities Most GFCI outlets are made with tabs and rivets that can't be removed in a non-destructive manner.

        – isherwood
        7 hours ago


















      7















      1. It's not practically feasible to clean and repair a GFCI outlet. They're fairly elaborate and sensitive gizmos, and they're not designed to be disassembled. Could you pull it off? Probably. Would I want to? Nope. Would it void the UL listing? Yup.


      2. Whether GFCI outlets are needed at the end of a circuit depends almost entirely on where they're located. The fact that they're the last in a string of outlets is inconsequential. Are they in locations normally exposed to water, such as kitchens and bathrooms? If so, they need to stay.







      share|improve this answer


























      • Thanks for confirming my suspicians, isherwood, and for instructing me re only asking one question at a time. Much appreciated!

        – Patrick
        8 hours ago











      • What kinds of things void a UL listing/rating? Is there an official / insurance approved list somewhere?

        – Xen2050
        7 hours ago






      • 2





        "An authorized use of the UL Mark is the manufacturer’s declaration that the product was manufactured in accordance with all applicable requirements, and was in compliance with those requirements when it was shipped from the factory. If that product is modified after it leaves the factory, only a UL Field Evaluation can determine if the modified product complies with UL’s requirements." ul.com/code-authorities/resources/faqs-for-code-authorities Most GFCI outlets are made with tabs and rivets that can't be removed in a non-destructive manner.

        – isherwood
        7 hours ago
















      7












      7








      7








      1. It's not practically feasible to clean and repair a GFCI outlet. They're fairly elaborate and sensitive gizmos, and they're not designed to be disassembled. Could you pull it off? Probably. Would I want to? Nope. Would it void the UL listing? Yup.


      2. Whether GFCI outlets are needed at the end of a circuit depends almost entirely on where they're located. The fact that they're the last in a string of outlets is inconsequential. Are they in locations normally exposed to water, such as kitchens and bathrooms? If so, they need to stay.







      share|improve this answer
















      1. It's not practically feasible to clean and repair a GFCI outlet. They're fairly elaborate and sensitive gizmos, and they're not designed to be disassembled. Could you pull it off? Probably. Would I want to? Nope. Would it void the UL listing? Yup.


      2. Whether GFCI outlets are needed at the end of a circuit depends almost entirely on where they're located. The fact that they're the last in a string of outlets is inconsequential. Are they in locations normally exposed to water, such as kitchens and bathrooms? If so, they need to stay.








      share|improve this answer














      share|improve this answer



      share|improve this answer








      edited 6 hours ago

























      answered 8 hours ago









      isherwoodisherwood

      51k460130




      51k460130













      • Thanks for confirming my suspicians, isherwood, and for instructing me re only asking one question at a time. Much appreciated!

        – Patrick
        8 hours ago











      • What kinds of things void a UL listing/rating? Is there an official / insurance approved list somewhere?

        – Xen2050
        7 hours ago






      • 2





        "An authorized use of the UL Mark is the manufacturer’s declaration that the product was manufactured in accordance with all applicable requirements, and was in compliance with those requirements when it was shipped from the factory. If that product is modified after it leaves the factory, only a UL Field Evaluation can determine if the modified product complies with UL’s requirements." ul.com/code-authorities/resources/faqs-for-code-authorities Most GFCI outlets are made with tabs and rivets that can't be removed in a non-destructive manner.

        – isherwood
        7 hours ago





















      • Thanks for confirming my suspicians, isherwood, and for instructing me re only asking one question at a time. Much appreciated!

        – Patrick
        8 hours ago











      • What kinds of things void a UL listing/rating? Is there an official / insurance approved list somewhere?

        – Xen2050
        7 hours ago






      • 2





        "An authorized use of the UL Mark is the manufacturer’s declaration that the product was manufactured in accordance with all applicable requirements, and was in compliance with those requirements when it was shipped from the factory. If that product is modified after it leaves the factory, only a UL Field Evaluation can determine if the modified product complies with UL’s requirements." ul.com/code-authorities/resources/faqs-for-code-authorities Most GFCI outlets are made with tabs and rivets that can't be removed in a non-destructive manner.

        – isherwood
        7 hours ago



















      Thanks for confirming my suspicians, isherwood, and for instructing me re only asking one question at a time. Much appreciated!

      – Patrick
      8 hours ago





      Thanks for confirming my suspicians, isherwood, and for instructing me re only asking one question at a time. Much appreciated!

      – Patrick
      8 hours ago













      What kinds of things void a UL listing/rating? Is there an official / insurance approved list somewhere?

      – Xen2050
      7 hours ago





      What kinds of things void a UL listing/rating? Is there an official / insurance approved list somewhere?

      – Xen2050
      7 hours ago




      2




      2





      "An authorized use of the UL Mark is the manufacturer’s declaration that the product was manufactured in accordance with all applicable requirements, and was in compliance with those requirements when it was shipped from the factory. If that product is modified after it leaves the factory, only a UL Field Evaluation can determine if the modified product complies with UL’s requirements." ul.com/code-authorities/resources/faqs-for-code-authorities Most GFCI outlets are made with tabs and rivets that can't be removed in a non-destructive manner.

      – isherwood
      7 hours ago







      "An authorized use of the UL Mark is the manufacturer’s declaration that the product was manufactured in accordance with all applicable requirements, and was in compliance with those requirements when it was shipped from the factory. If that product is modified after it leaves the factory, only a UL Field Evaluation can determine if the modified product complies with UL’s requirements." ul.com/code-authorities/resources/faqs-for-code-authorities Most GFCI outlets are made with tabs and rivets that can't be removed in a non-destructive manner.

      – isherwood
      7 hours ago













      6














      It's worse than that. The cables are done too.



      Most houses are wired with Romex (NM) cable. That's not rated for getting wet. It has paper packing inside the sheath that just wicks water like crazy.



      If the people who built the house were flood savvy, they built with UF cable, which is wet-rated and notably does not have that paper packing. It will be fine. Or they built with conduit and use THWN or THWN-2 individual wires. Those are also wet-rated and work fine even if the conduit is full of water, which is the normal expectation outdoors.



      All the switches and outlets are done



      Flood damage destroys everything, becuase it's not just water, it's a lot of crud too. Flood cars are finished. Some of that crud is electrically conductive, and it has gunked up each of the receptacles with it. Also, the crud is corrosive, so anything in that receptacle that could corrode, is right now.



      For all those reasons (electronics are extra sensitive to corrosion), the GFCIs are all finished and must be replaced.



      The service panel is also done



      Service panels, even outdoor rated ones, are not rated to go for a swim. The crud is also inside the breakers laying conductive tracks and doing corrosion damage. These breakers will no longer be reliable. It might be possible to pull the buses out of the service panel and clean them, you'd have to see.



      If you look at news footage of Houston's recent flood, you see lots of 2-storey apartments, 1st floors flooded out, and 2nd floors with the lights on and the A/C running. Flood-savvy builders take their power from overhead lines not underground, and put the service panel on the 2nd floor. They put 1st floor circuits on GFCI breakers so they don't electrify the water and drown people. A GFCI breaker protects the entire circuit and makes GFCI receptacles unnecessary.



      All GFCI devices can protect downline loads if wired correctly. You are correct that a GFCI receptacle on the end of a circuit is a bit of a waste.



      (Usually) you can't work on rental properties



      Most areas have a law that only licensed electricians can do work on rental properties. That is to prevent landlords from doing shoddy work on the cheap and killing their tenants.



      Check with your local authority (the department in City Hall you go to pull permits). They will tell you what a handyman can and cannot do with electrical in rental units. If they allow you to do anything at all, it would be limited to changing receptacles, switches or lights. GFCI receptacle changes could be included in that.






      share|improve this answer
























      • The silver lining is that since the walls need to be torn apart to eradicate mold, getting access to the ruined electrical cables will not be difficult.

        – Ben Voigt
        1 hour ago
















      6














      It's worse than that. The cables are done too.



      Most houses are wired with Romex (NM) cable. That's not rated for getting wet. It has paper packing inside the sheath that just wicks water like crazy.



      If the people who built the house were flood savvy, they built with UF cable, which is wet-rated and notably does not have that paper packing. It will be fine. Or they built with conduit and use THWN or THWN-2 individual wires. Those are also wet-rated and work fine even if the conduit is full of water, which is the normal expectation outdoors.



      All the switches and outlets are done



      Flood damage destroys everything, becuase it's not just water, it's a lot of crud too. Flood cars are finished. Some of that crud is electrically conductive, and it has gunked up each of the receptacles with it. Also, the crud is corrosive, so anything in that receptacle that could corrode, is right now.



      For all those reasons (electronics are extra sensitive to corrosion), the GFCIs are all finished and must be replaced.



      The service panel is also done



      Service panels, even outdoor rated ones, are not rated to go for a swim. The crud is also inside the breakers laying conductive tracks and doing corrosion damage. These breakers will no longer be reliable. It might be possible to pull the buses out of the service panel and clean them, you'd have to see.



      If you look at news footage of Houston's recent flood, you see lots of 2-storey apartments, 1st floors flooded out, and 2nd floors with the lights on and the A/C running. Flood-savvy builders take their power from overhead lines not underground, and put the service panel on the 2nd floor. They put 1st floor circuits on GFCI breakers so they don't electrify the water and drown people. A GFCI breaker protects the entire circuit and makes GFCI receptacles unnecessary.



      All GFCI devices can protect downline loads if wired correctly. You are correct that a GFCI receptacle on the end of a circuit is a bit of a waste.



      (Usually) you can't work on rental properties



      Most areas have a law that only licensed electricians can do work on rental properties. That is to prevent landlords from doing shoddy work on the cheap and killing their tenants.



      Check with your local authority (the department in City Hall you go to pull permits). They will tell you what a handyman can and cannot do with electrical in rental units. If they allow you to do anything at all, it would be limited to changing receptacles, switches or lights. GFCI receptacle changes could be included in that.






      share|improve this answer
























      • The silver lining is that since the walls need to be torn apart to eradicate mold, getting access to the ruined electrical cables will not be difficult.

        – Ben Voigt
        1 hour ago














      6












      6








      6







      It's worse than that. The cables are done too.



      Most houses are wired with Romex (NM) cable. That's not rated for getting wet. It has paper packing inside the sheath that just wicks water like crazy.



      If the people who built the house were flood savvy, they built with UF cable, which is wet-rated and notably does not have that paper packing. It will be fine. Or they built with conduit and use THWN or THWN-2 individual wires. Those are also wet-rated and work fine even if the conduit is full of water, which is the normal expectation outdoors.



      All the switches and outlets are done



      Flood damage destroys everything, becuase it's not just water, it's a lot of crud too. Flood cars are finished. Some of that crud is electrically conductive, and it has gunked up each of the receptacles with it. Also, the crud is corrosive, so anything in that receptacle that could corrode, is right now.



      For all those reasons (electronics are extra sensitive to corrosion), the GFCIs are all finished and must be replaced.



      The service panel is also done



      Service panels, even outdoor rated ones, are not rated to go for a swim. The crud is also inside the breakers laying conductive tracks and doing corrosion damage. These breakers will no longer be reliable. It might be possible to pull the buses out of the service panel and clean them, you'd have to see.



      If you look at news footage of Houston's recent flood, you see lots of 2-storey apartments, 1st floors flooded out, and 2nd floors with the lights on and the A/C running. Flood-savvy builders take their power from overhead lines not underground, and put the service panel on the 2nd floor. They put 1st floor circuits on GFCI breakers so they don't electrify the water and drown people. A GFCI breaker protects the entire circuit and makes GFCI receptacles unnecessary.



      All GFCI devices can protect downline loads if wired correctly. You are correct that a GFCI receptacle on the end of a circuit is a bit of a waste.



      (Usually) you can't work on rental properties



      Most areas have a law that only licensed electricians can do work on rental properties. That is to prevent landlords from doing shoddy work on the cheap and killing their tenants.



      Check with your local authority (the department in City Hall you go to pull permits). They will tell you what a handyman can and cannot do with electrical in rental units. If they allow you to do anything at all, it would be limited to changing receptacles, switches or lights. GFCI receptacle changes could be included in that.






      share|improve this answer













      It's worse than that. The cables are done too.



      Most houses are wired with Romex (NM) cable. That's not rated for getting wet. It has paper packing inside the sheath that just wicks water like crazy.



      If the people who built the house were flood savvy, they built with UF cable, which is wet-rated and notably does not have that paper packing. It will be fine. Or they built with conduit and use THWN or THWN-2 individual wires. Those are also wet-rated and work fine even if the conduit is full of water, which is the normal expectation outdoors.



      All the switches and outlets are done



      Flood damage destroys everything, becuase it's not just water, it's a lot of crud too. Flood cars are finished. Some of that crud is electrically conductive, and it has gunked up each of the receptacles with it. Also, the crud is corrosive, so anything in that receptacle that could corrode, is right now.



      For all those reasons (electronics are extra sensitive to corrosion), the GFCIs are all finished and must be replaced.



      The service panel is also done



      Service panels, even outdoor rated ones, are not rated to go for a swim. The crud is also inside the breakers laying conductive tracks and doing corrosion damage. These breakers will no longer be reliable. It might be possible to pull the buses out of the service panel and clean them, you'd have to see.



      If you look at news footage of Houston's recent flood, you see lots of 2-storey apartments, 1st floors flooded out, and 2nd floors with the lights on and the A/C running. Flood-savvy builders take their power from overhead lines not underground, and put the service panel on the 2nd floor. They put 1st floor circuits on GFCI breakers so they don't electrify the water and drown people. A GFCI breaker protects the entire circuit and makes GFCI receptacles unnecessary.



      All GFCI devices can protect downline loads if wired correctly. You are correct that a GFCI receptacle on the end of a circuit is a bit of a waste.



      (Usually) you can't work on rental properties



      Most areas have a law that only licensed electricians can do work on rental properties. That is to prevent landlords from doing shoddy work on the cheap and killing their tenants.



      Check with your local authority (the department in City Hall you go to pull permits). They will tell you what a handyman can and cannot do with electrical in rental units. If they allow you to do anything at all, it would be limited to changing receptacles, switches or lights. GFCI receptacle changes could be included in that.







      share|improve this answer












      share|improve this answer



      share|improve this answer










      answered 5 hours ago









      HarperHarper

      75.3k449150




      75.3k449150













      • The silver lining is that since the walls need to be torn apart to eradicate mold, getting access to the ruined electrical cables will not be difficult.

        – Ben Voigt
        1 hour ago



















      • The silver lining is that since the walls need to be torn apart to eradicate mold, getting access to the ruined electrical cables will not be difficult.

        – Ben Voigt
        1 hour ago

















      The silver lining is that since the walls need to be torn apart to eradicate mold, getting access to the ruined electrical cables will not be difficult.

      – Ben Voigt
      1 hour ago





      The silver lining is that since the walls need to be torn apart to eradicate mold, getting access to the ruined electrical cables will not be difficult.

      – Ben Voigt
      1 hour ago











      4















      Can GFCI outlets be taken apart and cleaned/fixed or is there something inside that fails permanently?




      A GFCI protects you by using a circuit board to watch the current flowing out of the hot and coming back into the neutral. If it reaches around 5mA imbalance, the breaker trips. You said yours were submerged in a flood. Just like your cell phone or computer, the flood ruined the circuitry inside. You cannot repair it yourself (assuming anyone can repair it).



      Replacing them is not terribly expensive, and the newer ones have a self-test mechanism.






      share|improve this answer




























        4















        Can GFCI outlets be taken apart and cleaned/fixed or is there something inside that fails permanently?




        A GFCI protects you by using a circuit board to watch the current flowing out of the hot and coming back into the neutral. If it reaches around 5mA imbalance, the breaker trips. You said yours were submerged in a flood. Just like your cell phone or computer, the flood ruined the circuitry inside. You cannot repair it yourself (assuming anyone can repair it).



        Replacing them is not terribly expensive, and the newer ones have a self-test mechanism.






        share|improve this answer


























          4












          4








          4








          Can GFCI outlets be taken apart and cleaned/fixed or is there something inside that fails permanently?




          A GFCI protects you by using a circuit board to watch the current flowing out of the hot and coming back into the neutral. If it reaches around 5mA imbalance, the breaker trips. You said yours were submerged in a flood. Just like your cell phone or computer, the flood ruined the circuitry inside. You cannot repair it yourself (assuming anyone can repair it).



          Replacing them is not terribly expensive, and the newer ones have a self-test mechanism.






          share|improve this answer














          Can GFCI outlets be taken apart and cleaned/fixed or is there something inside that fails permanently?




          A GFCI protects you by using a circuit board to watch the current flowing out of the hot and coming back into the neutral. If it reaches around 5mA imbalance, the breaker trips. You said yours were submerged in a flood. Just like your cell phone or computer, the flood ruined the circuitry inside. You cannot repair it yourself (assuming anyone can repair it).



          Replacing them is not terribly expensive, and the newer ones have a self-test mechanism.







          share|improve this answer












          share|improve this answer



          share|improve this answer










          answered 8 hours ago









          MachavityMachavity

          8,13621940




          8,13621940























              0














              As a homeowner, an electrical engineer, and a fair tinkerer, I would not attempt to repair a GFCI unless I was desperate.



              However, if I absolutely had to, what I would try is first rinsing with plain water and a few drops of dish detergent, then rinsing in distilled water with a few drops of dishwasher "rinse agent" added, then rinsing in plain rubbing alcohol. Do all these rinses thoroughly, so that the fluid is swished through the fixture. Then shake dry the best you can and put in a 100 degree oven (no warmer!) for an hour or two. If that doesn't fix it, toss it in the trash!



              It would be interesting to take one of the things apart to see how it's made, but I'm guessing it would be impossible to get back together again. To be successful you'd have to sacrifice one or two units to help you design assembly jigs of some sort, and you'd probably have to find some replacement rivets from somewhere.



              With regard to the wiring, it's kinda iffy. You especially want to make sure the GFCIs are replaced, and that, when reinstalled, they are properly grounded. (Check the continuity of the ground wire!) Any cabling that looks suspicious (especially scummy or "burned looking", eg) should be replaced. And any regular outlets in, eg, nursery areas, where gerfingerpokin is apt to be going on should be replaced.






              share|improve this answer




























                0














                As a homeowner, an electrical engineer, and a fair tinkerer, I would not attempt to repair a GFCI unless I was desperate.



                However, if I absolutely had to, what I would try is first rinsing with plain water and a few drops of dish detergent, then rinsing in distilled water with a few drops of dishwasher "rinse agent" added, then rinsing in plain rubbing alcohol. Do all these rinses thoroughly, so that the fluid is swished through the fixture. Then shake dry the best you can and put in a 100 degree oven (no warmer!) for an hour or two. If that doesn't fix it, toss it in the trash!



                It would be interesting to take one of the things apart to see how it's made, but I'm guessing it would be impossible to get back together again. To be successful you'd have to sacrifice one or two units to help you design assembly jigs of some sort, and you'd probably have to find some replacement rivets from somewhere.



                With regard to the wiring, it's kinda iffy. You especially want to make sure the GFCIs are replaced, and that, when reinstalled, they are properly grounded. (Check the continuity of the ground wire!) Any cabling that looks suspicious (especially scummy or "burned looking", eg) should be replaced. And any regular outlets in, eg, nursery areas, where gerfingerpokin is apt to be going on should be replaced.






                share|improve this answer


























                  0












                  0








                  0







                  As a homeowner, an electrical engineer, and a fair tinkerer, I would not attempt to repair a GFCI unless I was desperate.



                  However, if I absolutely had to, what I would try is first rinsing with plain water and a few drops of dish detergent, then rinsing in distilled water with a few drops of dishwasher "rinse agent" added, then rinsing in plain rubbing alcohol. Do all these rinses thoroughly, so that the fluid is swished through the fixture. Then shake dry the best you can and put in a 100 degree oven (no warmer!) for an hour or two. If that doesn't fix it, toss it in the trash!



                  It would be interesting to take one of the things apart to see how it's made, but I'm guessing it would be impossible to get back together again. To be successful you'd have to sacrifice one or two units to help you design assembly jigs of some sort, and you'd probably have to find some replacement rivets from somewhere.



                  With regard to the wiring, it's kinda iffy. You especially want to make sure the GFCIs are replaced, and that, when reinstalled, they are properly grounded. (Check the continuity of the ground wire!) Any cabling that looks suspicious (especially scummy or "burned looking", eg) should be replaced. And any regular outlets in, eg, nursery areas, where gerfingerpokin is apt to be going on should be replaced.






                  share|improve this answer













                  As a homeowner, an electrical engineer, and a fair tinkerer, I would not attempt to repair a GFCI unless I was desperate.



                  However, if I absolutely had to, what I would try is first rinsing with plain water and a few drops of dish detergent, then rinsing in distilled water with a few drops of dishwasher "rinse agent" added, then rinsing in plain rubbing alcohol. Do all these rinses thoroughly, so that the fluid is swished through the fixture. Then shake dry the best you can and put in a 100 degree oven (no warmer!) for an hour or two. If that doesn't fix it, toss it in the trash!



                  It would be interesting to take one of the things apart to see how it's made, but I'm guessing it would be impossible to get back together again. To be successful you'd have to sacrifice one or two units to help you design assembly jigs of some sort, and you'd probably have to find some replacement rivets from somewhere.



                  With regard to the wiring, it's kinda iffy. You especially want to make sure the GFCIs are replaced, and that, when reinstalled, they are properly grounded. (Check the continuity of the ground wire!) Any cabling that looks suspicious (especially scummy or "burned looking", eg) should be replaced. And any regular outlets in, eg, nursery areas, where gerfingerpokin is apt to be going on should be replaced.







                  share|improve this answer












                  share|improve this answer



                  share|improve this answer










                  answered 4 hours ago









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